The jacket of the student of the Russian railway schools

Casual clothes of black cloth called "a cropped coat", more comfortable for daily wear than the uniform or frock coat, first appeared in the wardrobe of naval officers of the Russian Imperial Navy in 1884, Two years later, the same clothes, but made of grey cloth and a slightly different cut was introduced for off-duty army officers. By the early twentieth century, cropped double-breasted coat with snap closure by six buttons and a smooth back firmly entered into the everyday life of military and civilian officials, students and pupils of the Russian Empire, received the unofficial name "the jacket".

The term comes from the French toujours, literally translated as "all days". The color of the jacket in the civilian agencies and educational institutions was generally dark green or dark blue. Due to its democracy, cheapness and comfort in wear it has become the most popular, and for a cash-strapped owners are often the only kind of uniform. In cold weather it buttoned to the top, in a warm – leave unbuttoned the top two or three buttons, turning the edges of the boards. The officials wore under the jacket with a starched collar and tie, and students – as a rule, blouse, white, colored or embroidered. On the sides, pockets, collar and cuffs of his jacket could get away with edging applied color. On the collar was sewn buttonholes rated office color with shaped buttons. Around the end of the 1890s for tailoring a jacket and pants instead of the cloth began to use wool diagonal weave with a pronounced pattern in the form of a scar. In everyday life this tissue has received the name "diagonal".

This jacket is made of dark blue diagonal on a black twill lining, buttonhole on the collar – dark green velvet with light green edging, buttons – white metal with a stamping in the form of a crossed axe and anchor, production factory "Buch". This color has been assigned to the office of communications and Valet service state-owned and private Railways, but the absence on the jacket of colored edgings (they are only on the lapels) is a characteristic detail of the uniforms of pupils of the lower technical schools. In this case, the jacket belonged to a student of the railway school. Pupils of such schools came from poor families, so the items of their clothing were exploited to the full depreciation to the present day almost never came. In spite of its age, the jacket has been preserved perfectly. With the exception of small yellowed areas on the lining and a few faded velvet lapels, other defects have not been identified. In the inside pocket of preserved factory label indicating the manufacturer (Znamensky trading house / St. Petersburg) and size (35/40). Size 42-44. Rare item in excellent preservation, guaranteed original.